
welding
welding
i want to buy a welding mach.. to weld on my truck but dont know what to buy or what kind stick or mig looking at replaceing panles and welding to the frame i looked at a few but dont know what thick ness to buy 1/8 3/8 ect.... thank u if u can help me all so i never weld before so i was going to teach my self how to im not looking for a high tech one just on that does the job that i want to do thanks 

Well for the well informed consumer to buy what is best for him he must know several things before he sets out on the buying journey.
1) How much money can you spend?
2)What are your voltage options? Do you have 110 only or 220?
3)What are you wanting to weld? Body panels, frame parts?
4)Is there a reputable welding supply house near you for consumables?
Answer these and I'll try to help more. As for my credentials and ability to help; I have been certified in three different welding processes, I own and operate a Machine Shop/Welding Shop. Any thing I tell you should not be thought upon as the gospel or the only way to do something, just that it is my opinion based upon over 35 years in the business.
1) How much money can you spend?
2)What are your voltage options? Do you have 110 only or 220?
3)What are you wanting to weld? Body panels, frame parts?
4)Is there a reputable welding supply house near you for consumables?
Answer these and I'll try to help more. As for my credentials and ability to help; I have been certified in three different welding processes, I own and operate a Machine Shop/Welding Shop. Any thing I tell you should not be thought upon as the gospel or the only way to do something, just that it is my opinion based upon over 35 years in the business.
88 BII,4.0, 9"& D44/4.88 locked. 1350/1354 doubles
92 XJ-wifes toy
92 XJ-wifes toy
weldind
vol-110 and a few hundred to spend ill only use the welder a few times a year q-panles and rockers and want to make bumpers and weld mounts to the frame such as tow hooks and shock mounts and whatever needs to be replace on the body and mounts ive looked at a homedepot
I agree, I use a Lincon arc welder and it works good for thicker metals like frame and suspension parts but if you plan to weld sheet metal I would look into getting a wire welder with a MIG conversion or just get a MIG welder. the problem is this setup is more expencive and harder to setup. when I learned to weld I got good with the arc welder first and then the MIG. so my advice would be to go that rought. but it is kind of like Bob says everyone has a different opinion about the best way to learn. also check into your local tech school. I took a class at western that was methods and materials that opened my eyes to alot more then just trial and error.
I paid aorund $200 for my setup new a LOWES the next step for me it to get a nice MIG setup. with you being new to the whole thing I would try to learn as much as you can about how the process works. maybe google the topic and read up on what the differences are between the ARC, MIG and TIG.
I paid aorund $200 for my setup new a LOWES the next step for me it to get a nice MIG setup. with you being new to the whole thing I would try to learn as much as you can about how the process works. maybe google the topic and read up on what the differences are between the ARC, MIG and TIG.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tig-Mig-Stick-Heat- ... dZViewItem
Good book/cd to have to read before you strike an arc
http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-MIG-WELDER-131 ... dZViewItem
Not a bad entry machine, won't have enough amps to weld frame rails or bumpers(correctly), but better than nothing. Problem is the available voltage you have, if you could get a 220 welder then a Miller or Lincoln mig unit in the 170 amp range would do what you want. Th esmaller machines have a lower duty cycle than the big'ens but are more economically priced too.
Do you have an electric dryer? If so, the hassle factor is pretty high but it is possible to just unplug the dryer and plug in a real welder to that outlet. If dryer is in garage it would be better because you wouldn't need much for an extension cable. Is it possible to get a 220 outlet wired in near where you want to be welding?
Good book/cd to have to read before you strike an arc
http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-MIG-WELDER-131 ... dZViewItem
Not a bad entry machine, won't have enough amps to weld frame rails or bumpers(correctly), but better than nothing. Problem is the available voltage you have, if you could get a 220 welder then a Miller or Lincoln mig unit in the 170 amp range would do what you want. Th esmaller machines have a lower duty cycle than the big'ens but are more economically priced too.
Do you have an electric dryer? If so, the hassle factor is pretty high but it is possible to just unplug the dryer and plug in a real welder to that outlet. If dryer is in garage it would be better because you wouldn't need much for an extension cable. Is it possible to get a 220 outlet wired in near where you want to be welding?
88 BII,4.0, 9"& D44/4.88 locked. 1350/1354 doubles
92 XJ-wifes toy
92 XJ-wifes toy
I'd say a 220V Arc welder would give you the most bang for the buck. Of course as mentioned above, you'd need a 220V outlet. Arc welders are no good for doing light guage work though.
Wire feeds are nice, but the 110V won't give you much penetration and will need a cool down time. It will take lots of prep work and some experiece to weld heavier duty stuff.
Ohhh and don't plan on doing verticle welding on the frame any time soon. Personally, I much prefer bolting to the frame anyway.
Wire feeds are nice, but the 110V won't give you much penetration and will need a cool down time. It will take lots of prep work and some experiece to weld heavier duty stuff.
Ohhh and don't plan on doing verticle welding on the frame any time soon. Personally, I much prefer bolting to the frame anyway.
While I totally agree with this statement-for me, it would however not be true for someone just learning to weld. I had no access to a mig when I learned to weld(1969) and even after perfecting the strike and arc and maintain it routine, I then had to learn what to do next. With a mig unit as a teaching tool half of the problems associated with learning are put to the end of the lesson, and can even be left unlearned by never using an arc. I have taught several people to weld with arc, mig and tig units and have always thought that teaching with a mig was a lot less frustrating for both the student and myself.Nobody wrote:I'd say a 220V Arc welder would give you the most bang for the buck.
But,,, I'll take an arc welder and a box of 7018 for my useage any day over a mig.
88 BII,4.0, 9"& D44/4.88 locked. 1350/1354 doubles
92 XJ-wifes toy
92 XJ-wifes toy
And as I read the first post, that is where he wants to go.Nobody wrote:When I took welding in high school, we had to master oxy/acc first, then Arc before we were allowed to touch to a MIG. That of course was because if you could do the other two, you could do mig. So I agree that mig definately has the shortest learning curve.
I was oxy welding at age 11, tig welding at 14 and learned to arc at 14
88 BII,4.0, 9"& D44/4.88 locked. 1350/1354 doubles
92 XJ-wifes toy
92 XJ-wifes toy
I learned to arc first then the MIG was easy. alot of my arc was self taught because I only had a little access at work. when I took a class at WKU it was an eye opener...
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com