Drive Shaft Swap
Drive Shaft Swap
I'm looking at swapping my current cv style rear drive shaft with one that has two u-joints. I got one at the yard in good shape. The issue I'm not sure about is that my B2 is automatic and the shaft came out of a B2 with manual trans. I measured the one in my B2 and it measures 31 inches from flange to flange installed (with the truck sitting level). The shaft from the manual trans B2 when extended to 31" is in about the middle of the spline movement travel. Is there a difference in length for a manual and auto and will this swap work? Idications from measurements say it will but it would be nice to hear if anyone has done this and how it worked out. I have no idea how much travel I'd need to have with the shaft installed and the truck sitting level.
Did the shaft swap. At rest and level the shaft was at about the center of it's spline travel. With the rear of the truck jacked up to the point where the rear tires were about to leave the ground, the spline still had about two or more inches of travel left. Took it for a ride and there was no vibration (even though the shaft cyliner has a few small dents), drove good and smooth up to the 65 MPH I took it. Time will tell but for now the crappy CV shaft is extra emergency parts.
-
OffroadBEAR
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Hey, what year B2 did you get the u-joint shaft out of? I have an 88 w/manual trans and have that POS CV driveshaft, and need to do this swap. How much was the new shaft? Did you have to get anything else from the donor truck besides the shaft (yokes or anything like that, or did the u-joint shaft also have flanges like the CV shaft)? Thanks man, my CV is stripping out again (a new one cost me $60, and only lasted me like 2 years).
88 BII XLT 2.9/5spd/4x4 Lemans 31x10.5s
Hi OffroadBEAR. Got the shaft off an '89 B2. Was there today to find a door and did see a double u-joint shaft in an '89 or '90 and it also had 4" lift blocks. There was even still a tag on that shaft from some driveline place in Ohio (I live in PA). I paid $10 for the shaft I got and it was the complete shaft from flange to flange. I was tempted to take the double out that I saw today but it was getting late and I had enough sun, heat and humidity for one day. BTW: The shaft I saw today would have cost $10 also.
drive shaft
I swapped my cv style with a bad ass shaft from drivelines northwest in everett WA. $230 will work with up to 4 inch lift bad ass.
CV Joint gone bad
My CV Joint has gone bad. Everytime I load 2 or more poeple in my BII when I take off the whole thing clunks repeatedly until I get moving. This double u-joint modification looks appealing. Any words of advice before I head to the yard?
Measure the driveshaft you have now, on the truck and sitting level. Make sure the shaft you get will allow the spline to travel in both directions (shorter and longer) to adjust for suspension travel. I have a 1990 with auto trans and the shaft I got came from a 1989 with a standard 5 speed. It works great. There are two options. Some shafts have single u-joints at each end and some have a double u-joint at the rear. The double will allow for lift due to it being able to work at greater angles without binding up the u-joint. If I remember correctly the CV shaft on mine measured like 31 inches from flange face to flange face and the shaft I got was at 31 inches at abourt center travel.