Real world tips and tricks for the do-it-yourself ethusiast. Tools and parts that make life easy, and simple fabrication tips and tricks.
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
ive used the top one... bought it for my warn manual hub installation... then returned it 2 hours later.... only thing i can see that would "suck" about it is that you have to put forward pressure on it while using it. no complaints for free though.
I have the sucky one. That lock nut absolutely did not want to come off and the socket was not helping matters. The harder you push down on the breaker bar, the more the top of the socket wants to come unseated. In effect, it is like you are pushing down on the back of the socket while you turn it. In order to get it to stay seated, I ended up using a jack stand to support the back of the socket. I put my jack under the beam and very slowly lowered it until the socket lined up perfectly with the jack stand. At that point, I could lean on the breaker bar all I wanted and the socket stayed seated. Obviously that isn't as good as just having the right tool (which I did not know existed), but if you are having issues with the bad socket, give this a try. It would be more difficult on the trail, but surely you can find a rock or something to use. You could even use the factory bottle jack in place of the jack stand if you still carry it in the vehicle. Just a tip for those who have the socket that sucks
I have the sucky one as well. I bought it when I converted my auto locking hubs to manual locking. I didn't have it yet when I was taking the spindle nuts off the truck in the junk yard but when I went to put it on my truck, I went and bought it from advanced auto, Thats the only one they had though. But it was still better than a flat head screwdriver and a hammer.
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