New to bronco2's

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jzoomer
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:32 am
Location: GreenEville TN

New to bronco2's

Postby jzoomer » Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:11 am

hi all, my name is joe obviously new to this forum, but not new to the forum scene i have been a part of the online mazda community for years as a mod. anywho

I just picked up my first bronco2 this weekend she is an 87 XLT model with the porn star red interior
5spd, 4wd, the body is straight interior is SHOT! glass is good, it sat for about a year but motor still starts up (wont idle till its been ran for a min or two?) and it needs a clutch...

as far as plans go i want to replace the clutch which i have already found out will be a P.I.T.A.
replace the valve cover gaskets (leaking oil pretty bad from that area)
do a tune up (plugs wires filters and fluids)
and hope the 4wd works cause i need it for a winter vehicle

i took a gamble and got it for $450 i know its gonna need some tlc but i am not concerned with looks i want something i can get through winter with i don't wanna do any mods till i get through winter once its over and i can go back to driving my 2wd,

at that point im going to be ordering the 4" rough country lift kit and some 33" tires, i am removing all of the interior carpet and doing the bed liner inside, i would also be interested in switching to manual locking hubs as i don't trust this electronic crap in case of emergencies

anywho if you have any inputs that may be helpful in making my expedition of changing the clutch any easier it would be greatly appreciated, i have decent mechanical knowledge but have never messed with clutches/transmissions,
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"its not about owning all the toys in the world, its about playing with them"

drofman
Posts: 470
Joined: Sun Dec 27, 2009 9:36 am
Location: san dirgo

Re: New to bronco2's

Postby drofman » Mon Sep 05, 2011 11:38 am

Welcome. The clutch isn't that bad to do. You're gonna need a good 12mm 12 point socket to get the rear driveshaft off. I adapt down from 1/2 drive to 3/8 and use a 3" extension with a impact gun cause they have locktight on them. When you take the transfercase off watch out, cause if you’re under it you will take a ATF bath. You’ll probably have to make a new gasket here (I find that Coors Light 18 pack cartons work good, or buy gasket material). You might want to change to slave cyl. while you’re in there cause you don’t want to pull it again and it’s a bitch to bleed. The front driveshaft doesn’t have to be remove but remember to index it. There. Just a few tips. I’m sure Tek will add some insight also. :D

jzoomer
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:32 am
Location: GreenEville TN

Re: New to bronco2's

Postby jzoomer » Wed Sep 07, 2011 10:44 am

thats good info to know ahead of time, thanks, i have a few other questions, i do believe that my rear driveshaft is what is considered a cv axle style shaft or something like that, its the smallest dinkiest driveshaft i have ever seen, is it tough enough to stand up to some decent winters and maybe some mild trails? and also did that cv shaft come on most of them? i would like to find a parts truck around here to get a regular u joint shaft from and swap them out unless the current one will be just fine...

and how hard is it to convert it to manual locking hubs?? and possibly even a manual T-case, what models should i look for as parts vehicles to do the swap from?

thanks in advance!
"its not about owning all the toys in the world, its about playing with them"


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