rear d-shaft

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
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NMB2
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rear d-shaft

Postby NMB2 » Mon May 30, 2005 4:54 pm

just thought id post up a picture of my rear d-shaft now that i finally got the truck mostly done and have wheeled it to make sure it all works well. very sturdy shaft, has about 6.5" of travel on the slip, spline O.D is 1.25". joint up top on t-case side is 1350 and bottom is 1350/1330 conversion.
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Nobody
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Postby Nobody » Tue May 31, 2005 9:22 am

You put a 1350 joint on a BW1350 transfer case?

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offroadohio
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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 4:36 pm

im running 1350's on both ends of mine, with DOUBLE slips.....

I'll go snag a pic real quick and post it here as well....

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Postby Nobody » Tue May 31, 2005 4:43 pm

So what flange do you use on the T-case?

As for double slips, I had a friend that tried that years ago, and it didn't really work, the driveshaft just slid down. I don't imagine you have enough flex to need a long travel shaft.

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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 5:15 pm

i'm running fullsize flanges (fullsize bronco) bolted directly to a stock 88 BII flat flange for a 1350 case. Only thing I swapped to make it work was the flat flange becuase mines an 85 and had the cardagan shaft that kept twisiting off.
the flat flange used on the 7.5 rears and the tcases are the most common bolt pattern out there.... a olds bravada front driveshaft uses the same flange for example. Not to mention the fullsize bronco splines are the same as cj5 spline as the splined shaft portion are both from cj's while the splined yoke are fullsize bronco

I'm running springs in both of my slips.... to keep them both pushing outward essentialy keeping the driveshaft in place.... I ahve it set up so that there isnt enough movment from one to pop the other out. set up gives me almost 7 inches of drive shaft travel..... no I dotn use it all, but my stock shaft kept breakign becuase of the bindage from flex....

Springs really make a differance... I even removed the c-clip from my front right axle and added a spring into the splined shaft, to keep it tight.... running this shaft and, the front shaft for 6 months with no issues.

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Postby Nobody » Tue May 31, 2005 5:26 pm

I haven't seen any flat flanges on the BII bw1350's. So do the CV style shafts use the flange, and the double cardan shafts use a yoke? Or is there a double cardan that uses a flange as well.......follow me?

I know upgrading u-joints is a pretty popular question among the Bronco II crowd, but no one seemed to have the exact answers. Thanks for the info.

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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 5:41 pm

cv style shafts ahve the flat flange..... cardan shafts ahve a yoke on the case....

take the flange from a case that came with cv shaft and replace the yoke from the 1350. You'll need a 3 inch longer than stock driveshaft... so no stock driveshaft 9 even cv ones) will work.... itll have to be made.


i Originaly decided to run the double slip becuase im poor, and couldnt afford to buy a new length of the correct size shaft tubing. So I put the splined end off a fullsize bronco in place of the samurai one, I used for the original chevette shafts.... then I replaced the jeep yoke with a jeep splined end, and added a two wheel drive ranger flange to the ujoint to make it bolt to the stock 7.5 flat flange. I swapped my tcase yoke to a flat flange from an 88ish BII, so that the fullsize bronco flange would bolt up.... then added springs into the slips to keep then pushing against each other so the shaft wouldnt move around when unwanted. That gave me the 36 inch length I needed, allowing it to compress t0 30 and extend to 40 if needed ( probably never need that much movment)but neither independant side moves enough for the other to pop out......

now if you have a 9inch in the rear such as 84BII has... just take a wagoneer shaft shorten it and add a 2wd ranger dshaft flange ( or fullsize bronco) to one end of it, as they use the same joint as a 9inch.

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Postby Nobody » Tue May 31, 2005 6:05 pm

When I did the V8 swap, I shorted an exploder shaft, which uses 1310 joints. My dana 20 uses 1310 yokes, and the flange bolted right to my 7.5. Then when I swapped in my dana 60, I used a 1310 yoke on the 60 and the shaft bolted right up.

There are ton of trucks that use 1310/1350 joints. When ever I need a shaft, I just go find something a little long in the junk yard, then have it cut down for $50.

This is a good thread, I'm just trying to clear things up for others.

The only issue at this point is finding a donor vehicle that has a flanged double cardan...... I can see vibrations/angles being an issue for some folks and they would want that.

Sheesh, for the guys that already have a CV shaft, this is virtually a bolt on upgrade. Never realize it was so easy :cool:

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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 6:21 pm

Yep, shafts can be shortened for cheap... lenghtened gets pricey.... I do it all my self, except balancing... never ha done done, and never get any more of a vibe than a set of m/t's give me...


I read someplace that theres a flat flanged cardan shaft, but I couldnt find the flange for it.... I wanted to use the complete fullsize Bronco shaft isntead of making my own, but coudltn locate the park....

Thing is though, I have LESS vibe now than I did with the stock shaft...

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Postby NMB2 » Tue May 31, 2005 6:45 pm

yes i have a 1350 joint on the t-case side and a 1350/1330 conversion on the 8" side. the CV U-joint style shafts use a yoke on the t-case and flange on the 7.5. the CV balljoints are flanges on both ends. i took my yoke off. got a 2.5" flange off a 1350 and a 2.5" flange off an explorer. (that is an explorer driveshaft). had it shortened and rebalanced and new joints put in..the slip has about 7" of travel..i have about 15" downward travel in the rear and its fine.... most explorers used 1310 joints but there is ones..like mine that used 1350 joints and 1350/1330 conversion. total investment: $100 even....
i wish my lawn was emo...so it'd cut itself.

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offroadohio
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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 6:56 pm

so thats an 8inch, out of???

ha ha, I got.... FREEBIE in mine....lol but I got lots of parts laying around, and get things given to me all the time...

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Postby Nobody » Tue May 31, 2005 7:01 pm

The ford 8" axle were found in a lot of 70's era cars. Quite a few people mistake them for 9"s. They are a spittin' image.

I was told an easy way to check is to try and put a deep socket on the bottom 3rd member bolt. If it fits, it's an 8".

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offroadohio
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Postby offroadohio » Tue May 31, 2005 7:18 pm

mustangs had em, as well as soem granada's etc.... just wondering which you used... and whats it like finding gears?

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Postby NMB2 » Tue May 31, 2005 11:54 pm

mine is from a 67 cougar. 60" wide, centered pinion. the housing is solid no taper and the 3rd is the heavy duty model. my new 4.11 gears costed me $165 and i put in ford 31spline shafts from a 9" of the same width. (spyders are swapable). right now i do not have the 31spline shafts in because i bought a Detroit full locker and they are built for 28spline. i figure these 28spline shafts should hold up fine because they arent exactly "small" like other ford shafts and they have no taper in them as well....if they do..in goes the welded carrier and 31spline shafts. As far as telling them apart. if you know what you are looking at they are very easy to tell apart... 9" is round and the 8" is flat on top and bottom of housing/3rd member. other than that they are the same axle other than size of gearset..
i wish my lawn was emo...so it'd cut itself.


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