Distributor problems

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gullion_a86
Posts: 30
Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 12:14 pm

Distributor problems

Post by gullion_a86 »

Ok first off I recently got a 85' b2 and the only thing that kept the engine from running was that the distributor had been distroyed (literally). Insde the distributor there is a green piece of plastic that holds some sort of magnet. It was in three pieces, and if I'm not mistaken, that is not what the inside of a distributor looks like. The rotor button was also (literally) destroyed. Lets just say that "I would never be able to put that puzzle together again," and leave it at that. Also, the cap had a hole in it the size of a pencil. All of this happened because the previous owner ran it out of gas. I know because it was my brother. Now, after I got it running I continued to start it every day. When I took it down the road from my house it ran out of gas, even though the fuel level said half a tank(I now know that the gauge was broke). Today, I figured out what was wrong with it, and when I found out, it pissed me off! I found out that the rotor button looked like a baby on its teething period got a hold of it. The cap is shit too. What is wierd is that the metal contact that is on the rotor button is not there it is in the distributor. The cap and button that I am talking about is BRAND SPANKIN' NEW. My question is "HOW THE HELL CAN AN ENGINE DESTROY THREE DISTRIBUTOR CAPS, THREE ROTOR BUTTONS, AND TWO BUT HOPEFULLY ONE DISTRIBUTOR IN A ONE MONTH PERIOD? it's pissin' me off so bad I'm thinkin' about saying "THE HELL WITH THIS B2!" and getting something else to play with. But I dom't want to do that. So could someone help me? Thanks in advance.
DBrown
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Post by DBrown »

I have never taken apart a 2.8/2.9/3.0 distributer. but it sounds like it is just whore out and it has too much play in it causing the cap and button to make contact. I would just look for another complete distributer. you hould be able to get one from a pick and pull for cheap. just be carefull not to drop anything in the motor when pulling the old one.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
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Nobody
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Post by Nobody »

I suspect that the cap/rotor wasn't put on properly. I've done it myself a time or two. Otherwise, if you're positive that it was put on correctly, then there must be a lot of physical slop in the main shaft...which isn't very likely.

What ever the reason, I can all but guarantee it has nothing to do with running out of gas.
DBrown
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Post by DBrown »

yeah, running out of gas just makes it not run.......doesn't break destribters. now if you said it killed the fuel pump that would be a different story.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
Blue_coyote
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:50 am
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Post by Blue_coyote »

DBrown wrote: now if you said it killed the fuel pump that would be a different story.
Except that most 85's have the 2.8 and a mechanical fuel pump. The diaphram doesn't much care if its pumping fuel,water, or air :D
:redneck: RRORC CA-W region rep :redneck:
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gullion_a86
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Post by gullion_a86 »

It's just making me mad but if there is a way to fix it, I'll do it. The truck has a carb if that helps any. I was thinking about putting a 289 in it too. But I don't know what tranny to put in it, or if it should be auto or manual. I'm also thinking about just taking the whole a/c system out, since it only worked in 1985. Would that mess anything up if I did?
TNMAN
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Post by TNMAN »

gullion_a86 wrote:It's just making me mad but if there is a way to fix it, I'll do it. The truck has a carb if that helps any. I was thinking about putting a 289 in it too. But I don't know what tranny to put in it, or if it should be auto or manual. I'm also thinking about just taking the whole a/c system out, since it only worked in 1985. Would that mess anything up if I did?
302 .....302.......302......302!.When I first started my "re-birth" on my 85 BroII...I considered a 289. Sounds like the dist. might just be worn out...allowing the shaft to wobble and let the rotor button contact the cap(would explain the pencil size hole). Cap being put on improperly could possibly have caused this too. As for the AC: Lose it...unless your rig is a D/D. Tranny: I now have a C4. I have no regrets about switching from man. to auto. This is my first auto trans and I love it! I run 5.43 gears and the auto lest me crawl around well. There some draw backs I suppose(with auto) but the advantages out weigh the dis's.
DBrown
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Post by DBrown »

the manual NP 435 has a better 1st gear ratio.

1st = 6.69:1

that is why I decided on it.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
gullion_a86
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Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 12:14 pm

Post by gullion_a86 »

How would I take out the a/c? Why shouldn't I put a 289 in it? I was also thinking about cutting the top off of it too. How would I do that?
DBrown
Posts: 1545
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:21 am
Location: Bowling Green, KY

Post by DBrown »

remove the belt from the compressor and just take everything out. I would leave the compressor on and just hook up the OBA mod.

the 289 and the 302 are pretty much the same swap so I think it would benifit you to just go for the 302 or 50HO and get a better performing motor.

well, if you chop yourself you need some experience with welding and cutting. also materials, remember you are removing something that is made to protect you so you need to really think about how you cut and where.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
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