Check engine light came on when I slammed the door
then it flickered off and on while driving and then went off for a bit...then came back on and its been on steady now. Gas mileage S U C K S now and it won't shift into overdrive. I mean $15 regular gas used to last me 4 days or so...now I'm lucky if I get 2.
The check engine light comes on shortly after the truck is started then the rpm needle drops to where it should be after normal warm up and it idles hard, but doesn't stall out ever and normal driving isn't effected except for the sucky gas mileage and not shifting into OD.
already went to advance auto parts and places, but they only have the OBD II scanners
1990 Bronco II 4x4 2.9 auto
1999 Suzuki GSXR 750 (street & track - modded)
1997 Suzuki GSXR 600 (track only - modded)
ah...someone on the motorcycle forums showed this to me...NICE - just like finding the FI codes on a motorcycle
"For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.
Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.
Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed."
oneway wrote:ah...someone on the motorcycle forums showed this to me...NICE - just like finding the FI codes on a motorcycle
"For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes.
Ford owners can check their check engine light using the diagnostic connector located at the engine compartment by the fender near the battery. Getting the obd1 codes need a couple of tools: a 4 inch long gage 16 jumper wire and a 12 volt test light.
Both tools are hooked up to the diagnostic connector and when the ignition key is turned on (without starting engine) the codes will begin to flash in the test light, not in the dash panel. If there is no code, you will normally get code 11 or 111. On Fords, there are 2 test modes, the KOEO (key on engine off) and the KOER (key on engine running). Both test modes should be used to get the accurate evaluation of the stored fault codes.
Of all the 3 domestic vehicles, the easiest method to check the engine light is Chrysler products. Why? Because all you need is to turn the ignition key on and off a within 5 seconds and the codes will start to flash in the dash panel.
Counting the codes being flashed is almost the same for these 3 domestic vehicles and most of the codes can be erased or cleared by disconnecting the battery negative terminal for 1 minute and reconnect. Just make sure to check your service manual in case you have electronic equipment such as radio or clock that needs reprogramming in which battery disconnection is not recommended. Finally after performing repairs on the culprit code, always go for a road test to confirm if the problem is fixed."
Awesome. Will it work if there is no check engine or Emission light on? I want to know what my engine parameters are to see if the fuel pressure and relevant emissions are in order. I am contemplating buying an OBD1 tester, if'n I can find one.
Thanks for the reply, it helps a lot.
