5.0 Install

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
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onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

I'm going to start a thread about my 5.0 install. I'm going to make updates everytime I work on something and try and go into detail about everything I did and hopefully with the questions I ask and the descriptions I give a lot of questions can be answered in the future. My hours during the week are expanding and pushing into the weekend so I won't have much time to be doing the swap until the holidays are over. I'll be picking up the 302 next weekend. I can tell you it is going to be a carb. It has 70k on it and it will be $250 all acc. included.

So, at this point I only have the NP435 tranny and NP205 t-case.

Image

I have a question about the flywheel, clutch, etc.

I did a lot of research to prepare myself for the swap. I'm running the manual transmission. I read that I should use the 164 tooth flywheel. Is this a must? Is the imbalance relative to the amount of teeth on the flywheel or just the year of the engine? Must I use an 11" clutch or can't this be answered until I know what engine I am buying.

Thanks, I can't wait to have this thing done!
EBSTEVE
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:10 am

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by EBSTEVE »

You want to use the flywheel that is setup for the bellhousing, all the trucks I have ever seen are the 164 tooth setup, if you put the 158 in there the starter won't engage and you may be stuck with a smaller clutch. Imbalance changed when they went from the 302 to the 5L, yes there is a difference, if you are using an early motor it's 28oz balance, the newer injected stuff is 50oz. You should not have to use a 11" clutch, but why would you want to use a smaller one?
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

Alright, thank you. That clears that up.

Well, I wasn't sure if the clutch had to match anything. I was going to use what ever came with the motor and eventuall upgrade.

Depends how much I get the swap parts for. It would suck to have to pull everything apart again just to change that out. So hopefully I can get some good prices. Headers seem to be the most expensive part of this.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

Okay.. At this point in time I have 2 choices for my engine. I can grab a carbed 302 from an early bronco for $250 or a EFI 5.0 out of a 94-95 mustang for $850. I would much rather use the EB. If this will work, I don't see why not, I'd already be saving money because I wouldn't have to buy an oil pan.
EBSTEVE
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:10 am

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by EBSTEVE »

Let me get this straight, you would rather have a carbed old motor vs a newer FI roller motor? I yarded out the carbed stuff a few years ago for the FI stuff and it's one of the best mods I have done. Also I used the 5L oilpan in my EB so I bet it would work for you, if not I still have the EB oil pan and pick up that I need to sell someday.
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

What I want and what I can afford to get are two different things. I have to get what money can buy and that happens to be the EB motor.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

I did some parts research and I finally have everything I need, except the motor. I can't seem to find time to go and pick it up. It will be a carbeb motor. The weather isn't looking good and my garage doesn't have heat, so it looks like I'll be holding out for some warmer weather before I actually begin the swap.

Few things that don't 100% make sense at this point.

-On a carbed motor will I still need the fuel return line to the gas tank?

-I am leaving the in-tank pump, and removing the pump along the rail. Will there be enough pressure to get the fuel to the mechanical pump at the motor?

-I'm removing the electric fuel pump, will the wiring of that effect wheter or not the engine will start.

-I'm switching from an auto to manual. How will I wire the neutral safety switch and the clutch interlock switch?

The wife bought me coated shorty headers from advanced adapters.

I bought motor mounts from Bronco Graveyard, they are the same thing as L&L, but are about $40 cheaper.

I pieced together an oil filter relocation kit from Jegs for around $50.

For the fuel pump I went to rockauto.com and ordered an inverted mech. pump for a 1973 Econoline. $20 I also looked at the Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder and that was also in the low 20's. I'm using a bell housing off of a full size so I'm not going to that route.

On a side note I was looking further into ways to get more rear suspension droop and once the weather warms up I will be flipping my spring hangers allowing the shackle to do most of the drooping.
EBSTEVE
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:10 am

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by EBSTEVE »

onewontwo wrote:Few things that don't 100% make sense at this point.

-On a carbed motor will I still need the fuel return line to the gas tank?
This is a tricky question, if you supply the motor the correct pressure then no, if you are going to put too much fuel to the motor they you will want a 3 port adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You will be able to supply the motor with what it needs and send the rest back to the tank.

-I am leaving the in-tank pump, and removing the pump along the rail. Will there be enough pressure to get the fuel to the mechanical pump at the motor?
There "should" be plenty of pressure and volume, maybe too much, refer back to the first answer.

-I'm removing the electric fuel pump, will the wiring of that effect wheter or not the engine will start.
Just rewire it from the switch and bypas the computer it will no longer be necessary.

-I'm switching from an auto to manual. How will I wire the neutral safety switch and the clutch interlock switch?
Post up the wiring in the manual for each, it should be straight forward.
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

EBSTEVE wrote:
onewontwo wrote:
-I am leaving the in-tank pump, and removing the pump along the rail. Will there be enough pressure to get the fuel to the mechanical pump at the motor?
There "should" be plenty of pressure and volume, maybe too much, refer back to the first answer.
Thank you. As far as the bypass regulator. Would I mount that before or after the mechanical pump?
EBSTEVE
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:10 am

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by EBSTEVE »

I have not ever used one, I would think you could get by without the mechanical if the intank pump is strong enough. You should be able to Google the intank pump and find out what it puts out.
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

Thank you for the help. Trying to get all the right parts has been a headache so far. I'm sure it will be worth it in the end.
WaPaul
Posts: 34
Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:17 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by WaPaul »

good luck with your swap.

I am getting all the things together for my swap too.

I have a 66 GT mustang 289 and a C4 tranny. I am looking at your Tanny tcase and thinking you are better off than me. I am faced with the $500 Adapter to make the C4 work. I think I am going to look into the setup you have before I buy the kit to hook the C4 to the TCase.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

If you need it I have an extra inverted mechanical fuel pump. I ordered one and was charged/ sent with two. I was going to send it back but if you need I can send it to you. It's brand new.
onewontwo
Posts: 277
Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 1:14 pm

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by onewontwo »

Holding off on this motor paid off for me. I'm picking up an injected '91 5.0L HO, w/ 73k miles on it, on Tuesday. With 2 sets of complete heads, and an extra block w/ rods and pistons. :D
EBSTEVE
Posts: 291
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:10 am

Re: 5.0 Install

Post by EBSTEVE »

Injected is the way to go, you won't regret it.
onewontwo wrote:Holding off on this motor paid off for me. I'm picking up an injected '91 5.0L HO, w/ 73k miles on it, on Tuesday. With 2 sets of complete heads, and an extra block w/ rods and pistons. :D
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
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