thinking bout going automatic

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 2:53 am

ok guys i did my 4.0 upgrade and the stock mazda 5 speed and yes its a mazda not mitsu i know i have had it out 3 times now ....... keeps giving problems, so whats the average cost for an automatic and transfer case that will work with it would like to hear what others are paying for them if they was looking for one... any body know..

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 12:25 pm

i dont know how much they cost but you should look for a c5 tranny which will be really strong and you can bolt your t case right up to it.

Dreded · Post by **Dreded** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 12:49 pm

i was just about to say the same thing as RockCrawler... the problem is a C-5 is a little hard to find but they are as strong as a C-4 wich is used behing all the 5.0L and I have done some hard crap to my C4 it wont break :)

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:18 pm

so will a C-5 bolt up to the 4.0 or will it require an adapter plate, and also would you know what year, makes, and models, or at least some to look for in order to try to locate a C-5 tranny ....... any info you do have would be helpfull at this point, im tired of clutch slippage, throw out bearings chattering, and starter problems, its really becoming a nuisance and i hate the clutch chatter im getting when im in low gear and locked in 4 low at an idle...... i do think its about time for a different rear driveshaft, i think the cv's are getting slop in mine, the chatter reminds me of how a u joint when it starts to get wear in the bearings slaps around under a truck when you try to idle a truck and take off, or the way a front wheel drive does if when you have a cv go bad in the drive axle.... one of my reason i was thinking bout going to automatic is for low gear in 4x4, i believe it would be easier to regulate the speed than the clutch, it seems to surge and slip alot.... i believe the chatter and jurk ( bucking bronco syndrome) is the rear becasue it does it in 2 wheel drive when taking off also so i believe its the rear shaft, have yet to pull it and run in 4 on front only to see if it disappears, i will be doing it before replacing tranny but i would like to start looking for a really good tranny - transfer combo .... i want to eventually be able to run 33's without damage becasue of being insufficient to pull them. i beefed up the 4.0 before installing it with a larger cam and i installed a k&N filter with the motor so if i dont change tranny and transfer case then i will at least have to upgrade to the 4.0 clutch becasue i can smoke the clutch just trying to take off if i get in the throttle hard and its got a new clutch plate and slave and throw out bearing thats 3 months old and i can make the clutch break loose when i get in the throttle hard...... guess i shouldnt have used the 2.9 clutch....LOL, and the throw out bearing is starting to chatter already at 3 months old and its only been attached to the 4.0 for a month now and it didnt do it when i first installed the 4.0 it did start after i smoked the clutch the first time i got in the throttle really hard though, and it has done it since.....

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 10:39 am

The C-5 folks are talking about came in the 84 BII and the 83 and 84 Ranger as the only auto tanny (may have been an option later in the Ranger). You can do a search at CarPart for them. All BII's had a t-case, even the 2wd ones(had a dummy box). And will bolt up to any 1350/1354 t-case. The 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 all have the same bell housing bolt patern. You will need the flex plate and spacer for the 2.8/c-5. You will need a 4.0 auto starter. Radiator with tranny cooler. And the tranny with bellhousing and dipstick, tube, and brackets. An aftermarket cable shifter or you'll need the shifter from the c-5 vehicle with all the rods and brackets (frame and tranny), and a larger floor shifter plate. The C-5 shifter assy will have to be removed from the smaller earlier plate and installed on the newer larger plate.

I have done this to my 88 BII with a 2.9 and also to my 94 Explorer with the 4.0. I used a doubler box in both. The C-5 is about 5 inches shorter than you tranny. My doubler is a little over 8 inches long so my over all lenth was about 3 inches longer.

The c-5 does not have an over drive. So you really need to keep the gears high (numerically lower) if you are going to drive it on the highway. This is why I went with a doubler box.

I would buy one cheep and have it rebuilt for a DD. It should then have a c-4 valve body and a non lock up new converter. If it were a trailer queen you could have it checked and a c-4 valve body installed and run it if everything checked out.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:10 pm

As said, a C5 is first best option. Only other option is walking.
Contrary to popular belief the c5 is actually a stronger tranny than the c4 IF you put the V8 high clutch pack in. Also the very high stall 2.8 converter can be replaced with a converter from a 75-78 v8 MustangII. The snout needs to be turned down to fit the v6 but after that it'll work. The stock replacement 2.8 converters do not have the lock up feature, that was deemed to be the weak link as was eliminated. With a 4.0 you can flash the converter to about 3200 rpms. Not good for a dd. The V8 unit will only flash to about 1900.
Contrary to popular belief also is that you must run the 4.0 starter and rewire for the solenoid that is mounted on it. Not true.
I have a A4ld flex plate, C5 tranny, 2.8 converter, with a 4.0 manual spacer plate, using a 2.9 manual starter. The secret to using a 2.9 manual starter is the 4.0 manual spacer plate, and a starter shim from Autozone or Advance, their "HELP" part #426022, sells for $5.95

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:39 am

Bob Myers wrote:With a 4.0 you can flash the converter to about 3200 rpms. Not good for a dd. The V8 unit will only flash to about 1900.

I have noticed that as I turns about 2900 rpms at 65 and with the cruse contol on if it approaches a small hill the RPMS will jump to 3200. Anyway to fix this?

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:15 am

Happy_Jack wrote:
Bob Myers wrote:With a 4.0 you can flash the converter to about 3200 rpms. Not good for a dd. The V8 unit will only flash to about 1900.
I have noticed that as I turns about 2900 rpms at 65 and with the cruse contol on if it approaches a small hill the RPMS will jump to 3200. Anyway to fix this?

V8 converter is your only hope

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:55 am

Will it fit? The 157 tooth and 164 tooth V-8 converter looked a lot bigger than the 2.8 v-6 one.