Well I went to all the junkyards today and found NO eb size dana44s . I did find some FS D44s but I really want to stay close to stock width.
If a d44 eb is too hard to find what other options do I have for a SAS? Jeep Grand Cherokee axle? They have V8s and should be able to handle the power right? Im frustrated right now, so any opinions are very welcome.
Well, the axles with weld on perches are prefered, but I wouldn't hesitate to snatch up a 78/79 axle with cast wedges. A drum brake axle isn't a bad thing either because you can do the cheby disc conversion cheap. The advantage is the steering arm on the drum knuckle is higher. Also most FS axles will have the larger u-joint vs, the EB.
The high pinion makes for nice driveline angles too.
You need to cut about 6" out of the long side. I'd have to look up the exact measurement. Basically grab the cheapest HP44 you can get your hands on......
I found my axles out of a 78 1/2 ton. I found the truck in a farming town in the backyard of some farmer. It was full of tumbleweeds and such. I gave him 250 bucks, sold the 351 trans and tcase for $350 , got 50 bucks for the frame and body. These trucks are laying around everywhere, especially out in the boonies. Also I've had luck at the local U PICK U PULL junkyard. You can usually get crap dirt cheap.
--L
hey Phillippi i have a eb d44 it's not complete. basically it's the housing with the stock 3.5 gears i was gonna use it for another project but if you realy want to go eb width and you'll put it to good use i'll sell it to you for what i bought it for. i have diff cover for it you'll just have to find knuckle out which you can pick up at any yard off of any 78-79 Bronco or late 70's model F-150. you can even star fresh with the chevy stuff.you'll have to buy or make your own steering linkage. you'll also need the axle shaft's i have a set from a fullsize 78-79 Bronco that can be cut down. i have a 9" housing that i got from Nobody it needs bearing's, breaks, and i think 1 shaft cut down. not asking much and i realy dont want to get rid of this stuff but if you'll use it well and would like to run eb i'll be willing to part with it.
I bet shipping would cost an arm and leg. If I want there are FS here and I bet for almost the same price I could get it cut down. I am going to have to see what I am going to do. My only problem is that I cannot spend alot of money so buying FS then cutting it down will cost a bunch im sure, as would shipping an EB axle.
I should mention that I did find an eb axle but it was in Redding, CA. I havent even called for a price as I dont want to have it shipped, again because of money. So for now I am looking local and have some emails im waiting for. I also am looking for a mustang upper intake that I also couldnt find today... Damn parts...
Suck it up and get the FS axle. I can 100% guarantee it will be worth it no matter what the cost. However, it shouldn't really cost that much anyway. Should be able to get a complete axle for less than $150, up to $150 to narrow the housing....and $80 or so to cut down your long axle shaft.
You can always wait one getting the shaft cut and new gears. It will be driveable in 2wd. You'll be needing some steering linkage as well. Misc...brake lines etc... It takes as long as it takes, but it
will be worth it.
If you deep six the 7.5, I wouldn't put in an 8.8 unless you already have one..... 9" for sure, or even better..... 60!
8.8's are c-clip, the axle tubes tend spin in the housing, and the stock diffs aren't exactly bullet proof. Personally, I'd say run the 7.5 and build a new rear axle.....that's what I did and it took me a couple years before I was able to put the 60 together. Now I have axle that should last the rest of my wheelin years. Think total cost of ownership.
Mis matched bolt patterns is annoying, but temporary.
Ok I found a 79 ford dana44 front reverse rotation (HP right?) w/ 3.50 gears with disc brakes for $100. I dont think the guy has the radius arms for it tho. He also said that it has the AWD hubs not manual. How much are manual hubs or is it that big a deal having the axle shafts spinning with no power to 4wd? He also said that its approx 64" wide which isnt that much wider then my d28 (only 5" or 2.5 on each side). I am hoping to go look at the axle the next couple of days. I might just keep the FS and get some flares for driving on the road.
Sounds like a fair deal to me. The lockouts are no big deal. Should be able to find a used set for next to nothing or buy some warns for about $80.
Reverse rotation, high pinion, reverse spiral, reverse cut...all refer to the same thing. Reverse rotation is actually an incorrect term as nothing actually turns the opposite direction. I prefer to just say high pinion.
If you are going to keep it full width, then you'll have do deal with spacing the buckets, or moving wedges. Moving wedges is the best, but no can do on the 78/79 axles.....so you'd want one with welded wedges.
I'm not a big fan of full width, but our trails are a big factor in that. Most people go full width simply because it's cheaper.
I like full width. 100 bucks is a great deal. Hubs usually run 50 to 80 bucks depending on what brand, etc. I found a set of new warn hubs on e-bay for 50 plus shipping. Here is a link for an EB parting out here in Colorado. http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=12104
This site has over 4000 members and usually has a ton of stuff for sale.
Oh and I heard a rumor that the TTB lockouts will work on a D44, anyone know if this is true??
--L
the hubs, calipers and carrier from the TTB will all work on the solid axle D44, but thats it. I am using the full width on mine for stablity, but right now I am looking at just doing a cab swap to the 79 frame. I figure it will be easier then resetting everything. also if I break something I can just run in the parts store and ask for a part from a 79 Bronco.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
. I did find some FS D44s but I really want to stay close to stock width. 
