OK now what?

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:55 pm

Phillippi i would do what Nobody suggested and just cut the long side of the d44 axle. then you'll be set. running that axle (78-79) just becomes messy. spacing out the bucket's is just more work. dont get me wrong though i love the fullwidth but i did mine the way i did because i had all the stuff there just had to donate my time. in other word's it was cheap.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:07 pm

Cheap is what matters to me. I have a fs 8.8 already, the only d44 front i could find at junk yards were 78-79s with cast wedges and they want $150+ for those. They do have some f250 leaf sprung ones but then i would have to convert to 5 lug or buy some wheels.

So thats why I am really thinking fs. Any pics of what you did Diesel?

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:41 pm

Phillipi-
I did mine using 6x3 square tube. I cut the tube down to 6x2 1/2. This is how I spaced it. The radius arm mounts I welded directly to the frame. I use the 7 degree radius arm bushings at the axle. I suppose you should space the radius arms, but your tires will rub. So far, no problems.
I used a length of 9 inches on the tube. I welded the 6x2 1/2x9 inch piece matching the top of the tube to the top of the frame. I then welded the bucket to the tube. You can use different heights if you need more lift etc.. I'm using the wild horses 3 inch springs up front. Anyways, this is how our group all did it (2 bronco II's, a ranger, a Navajo, and an explorer). None of us have had any problems so far. Also I used the f-150 track arm mount I just flipped the mount around and welded that to the frame between the steering bolts. I had to cover that hole with a flat piece of 1/4 in thick steel. The only problem this caused was clearance at the motor bracket. I just cut some away and gusseted it for strength.
--L

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:44 pm

i did a body swap on my bII i took my 87 broncoII and placed it on top of my 79 bronco chasis. it was cheaper for me to go that route becuz i already had a lifted 79 bronco that had some body damage from the tight trail's in Washington. if fullsize is what you want and you have to build on the cheap then i would say that making the coil bucket spacer's and radius arm spacer's would be better for you. you alway's can find a fullsize d44 with removable wedges later or just stick with what you build. there were a couple of rig over ar the ranger station site. one ran leaf's the other ran coil bucket spacers and there are alot that ran with eb's i did alot of research and talk with a couple of the guy's that ran those set up's. the one truck with the coil bucket's was sold so i dont know if it's over there still.

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:50 pm

hey Phillippi http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/pegalis1 this is the dude i was talking about. it is the pegalis rig on TRS solid axle ranger/broncoII. he's got some good pic's of the coil bucket spacing and mod's that are needed for the radius arm. cool guy but i think he sold the rig just glad he still has the good' up for everyone to work with. hope this help's

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:54 pm

yea those are nice pics. I need a new camera!! But yea, thats how I did mine.
--L

wilber · Post by **wilber** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 6:34 pm

cant you just weld new wedges on? if not heres how to shorten it

http://www.torc4x4.com/techpage.html

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:31 pm

here is what i did.

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:35 pm

I thought I was the only one dumb enough to work outside in the snow. I remember that's when we had that cold snap last year....

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 9:57 pm

I thought I was the only one dumb enough to work outside in the snow.

nope

i'll tell you what though it's better than working in 103* with no shade.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:01 pm

Wilber may be on to something. Can the new wedges just we welded right next to the old ones?

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:04 pm

No... especially not on the cast style. Besides...new wedges are rather spendy.

The link wilber posted is how Alx cut his down. I have a few friends that have done it the same way.

DDiesel...we were almost at 100 today....maybe tomorrow....I'm dying

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:08 pm

Here are your options...

1. EB axle
2. 78/79 HP44 (cast wedges) narrowed as posted above
3. <77 HP44 (welded wedges) Keep full width move wedges
4. <77 HP44 (welded wedges) Cut down

Pick one....anything else is ghetto in my opinion.

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:42 pm

the ford dana 44 5 lug is alot larger then the ford 8.8 lug 5 lug so that wont make any difference. I would go full width or go with an EB axle its just not worth the time and the chance of totally messing up a good 44. just go full width and put some dodge newer (94-00) 8 lug rims and then you will be really narrow. Its alot of work to cut down an axle right and have it driveable because you have to set the caster the same for both sides. do it once not many times it cost alot more trust me!

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:45 pm

ohh yeah one more thing if you do get the cast wedges make sure to pre heat the cast befor welding it! they never mention it in that link about welding it. try to get it up to about 400 degrees. other wise the weld wont hold and you dont want that leaveing you wile your driving down the road!