302 MOTOR MOUNTS

Jbroncoh · Post by **Jbroncoh** » Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:09 pm

I'm doing a 302 swap in my '86 BII. Just pondering the motor mounts. I know I can go & spend about $150 on conversion mounts, but I've also heard that mounts from an '85 Mustang GT swapped from side to side are said to be the same mounts James Duff sells. Can anyone verify that for me? I've also heard that I can make some from 1/4 inch steel but the drawing I have from MRE is not very specific. I understand 7" between the bolt holes but there is no measurement for the motor mount stud. I suppose I could go measure it but it seems like someone should have a better diagram. Has anyone used either one of these methods or have any better ideas? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Jul 01, 2004 8:08 pm

I coughed up the doe for the kaufmann mounts. Glad I did. They are a nice solid mount that keeps the engine in place. One of the reasons I bought them was to avoid rubber mounts, that will eventually fail. Next time around, i'll probably build my own of a similar design, but I was in time crunch when I did my conversion.

If you plan on wheelin hard, you'll want a solid mount with a poly bushing.

And yes.... I've heard the duff mounts are the mustang mounts.

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Thu Jul 01, 2004 10:23 pm

yeah i got duff mounts and dont really care for them and because of this one of these days (hopefully befor the rip) im going to built my own with alot stronger desing.

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Fri Jul 02, 2004 4:41 am

I went to the scrape iron yard and bought a peice of heavy channel. I bolted full size v-8 mounts to the block. Then I drilled a 1/2 hole in the channel and bolted it to the bottom of the v-8 mount. remove all the brackets from the engine cross member and set your v-8 down in where you want it. Tack weld the channel in place and remove the bolts in the motor mounts. Remove the engine and weld up the channel solid to the cross member. I'll have to check on my other computer and see if I still have pic's. If not I can take some new pic's and either post them on my web site or sent them to you if you can send me an e-mail address.

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Jul 02, 2004 6:13 am

You can upload those pics here. I'd like to see.

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:58 am

I have dinner guests this evening so I'm busy cleaning and cooking this afternoon. If I get everything ready early I post it up this afternnon. The old pic's are on my other computer. I have the engine out so I'll get at least one more pic also.

Jbroncoh · Post by **Jbroncoh** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 8:31 am

Sounds like a great idea Jack. I'd appreciate any more info or pics you can provide. Exactly what do you mean by channel iron? Is it angle iron, flat, square tube or what? Sounds like a stupid question but I need all the details I can get to lessen my odds of screwing this up. Please post pics & info here and/or send to me at Jbroncoh@aol.com. Thanks.

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 10:08 am

I have the pic's up on my web site now. Just click on the www thig at the bottom. Then click on the BII V-8 Motor Mount line to see the pic's. Or just click on this: http://www.mappyjack.com/V-8Mount.htm

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 4:16 pm

now would your (Jack) setup lower the engine lower then using the 2.9L mounts/1/2" stock mounts? I want to go as low as I can. Also whats the benefit to the hard mounts like Jacks over the 2.9L rubber mounts with adaptor plate??

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 8:49 pm

I had the TTB front under my BII. The bracket on the drivers side for the passangers TTB was my limiting factor. I did not have a lift kit on my BII that lowered the TTB brackets either. I did minor mods to my firewall. If I had done a front SAS first the oil pan would have cleared the cross member if I had removed the TTB bracket. I could have droped the engine down and moved it back. I had a 3" body lift.

One thing to consider is driveshaft angles. If you drop the engine the rear of the t-case output will go up. So you need to balance all those together. Course if you are useing a different t-case the output location could be different anyway.

The motor mounts I used in the picture are stock v-8 small block mounts. These were put in most Ford trucks for many many years.

This was the only V-8 swap I have done so I don't know how much lower or higher mine is. I read on one site (Duff's I think) that grinding of that TTB bracket may be needed to remove the oil drain plug(if you used there v-8 swap stuff). I did not need to do this. My drain plug was far enough to the rear of the bracket that this was not a problem.

Happy_Jack · Post by **Happy_Jack** » Mon Jul 05, 2004 4:25 am

A few other things I remembered. I made spacers to lift the engine up. They went in between the block and the motor mount. Again this was because of the passangers side TTB bracket attached to the rear of the cross member. If you don't have this bracket or you relocated it or did more fire wall modification than I did you can lower your engine lower than mine was.

The v-notch in the crossmember is also not centered between the frame. By using my way of mounting the engine (the same size metal channel on each side) the engine is off set to the passangers side. This gives you room to clear the steering and more room on the oil filter relocation. I even ran a small diaframe mechanical fuel pump for a while. Course you could always use different size metal on each side and center the engine if that bothers you.

I guess a good way to judge how my engine could set would be to look at the mounts. They are just about level with the frame. So just check the other mounts to see if they bolt to the engine above or below the top of the frame to see if they locate the engine higher or lower.

I ran mine on the highway from KS to Colorado and Utah many times at highyway speed with no problems from engine location or drive shaft vibration.