Help with 302 conversion

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Wheelz
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:08 pm
Location: Wallingford, CT

Help with 302 conversion

Post by Wheelz »

Well i finally got my 302.. Wanted to get some input before rebuilding the top end. The truck will be used mainly on weekends, during the winter and to drive on some moderate trail terrain. I was wondering for those of you who have done the swap what would you recommned for the intake, cam, and carb setup?

Thanks
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Nobody
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Post by Nobody »

Mine is a bone stock 77 302 with a holly 2bbl. Nothing to write home about. Low end is awesome, but I definately need a little more power when I'm in the snow. My next BII is going to fuel injected. After riding around with EBSTEVE and his 5.0L HO, it's definately the kick I'm looking for without stepping up to a 351W.

Wish I could offer some advice on the intake, cam and carb, but I've never really had the opportunity to experiment with that stuff. From reading I've done in the past, I think the heads are what make or break a 302.
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tekatlarge
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Post by tekatlarge »

Vehicle use varies however some basics never change.

For a daily or semi daily driver and weekend warrior your probably looking for a low end to mid range runner. A radical cam and huge carb is not a good idea. Remember Torque is our friend.

That all said,

My Choice for my Street Rod project (it's a 351) is as follows.

Stock bore and stroke

A Low end or what is commonly referred to as an "RV" Cam. It makes it's best power and torque from just off idle up to say 3500 or so.

For my Intake I might look at an Air Gap but in Lew of that I want to find a manifold / Carb combo aimed at making good torque.

I am going to look long and hard at what the major players are recommending. The manufactures like to sell a manifold / Carb package not just to make money but to also ensure a good match and to NOT over carburete.

I would be remiss not to mention that some companies offer a complete package. You are looking at cam carb and manifold. Some companies offer a good price for their combo.

As a last note, Money is the only stopping point.
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dirtcowboy
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Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2005 11:21 am
Location: Eureka, MT

Post by dirtcowboy »

You would be hard pressed to beat the Edelbrock system approach. They have matched carb,cam and intake packages as well as heads if you're so inclined. I have the Performer RPM package, heads and intake, with the off road truck Edelbrock carb. My engine is a 342* so I went with a different roller cam as the Perfromer RPM package uses a regular hydraulic tappet cam. I also have a Davis HEI distributor. I used a DSS clearanced block and stroker kit for the short block. I built this same basic package (with a far more radical roller cam) for my FFR kit kar (327 c.i.*) and it was an ass-kicker (387HP/ 412 lb/ft, rear wheel dyno numbers). I gotta say, thanx to No V8?, I also have 4.88 geared front and rear Expo axles so I can use the extra horses this package makes.

Note * I didn't bore my new blocks .030 over so my engines 342/327 are slightly less c.i. than the normal 347/331 SBF stroker engine sizes.
DBrown
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Post by DBrown »

if I were in your situation you realy need to look at budget, and how much power you are shooting for.

if you just want a decent motor for the street and trails, I would as said above go with an RV cam, but the rest is kind of up to how far you want to go. the first thing you need to do is make sure you get a good bottom end. meaning, no smoking or knocking and if you can do a compression check that would be a plus. then you can go from there. for mild builds I wouldn't realy get into much head work unless you are gasket matching and maybe shaving the heads a little to get some better compression.

intakes are plentiful so look around. make sure you get something that is from idle to about 5500. unless you get a roller motor then shoot for idle to around 6500. needless to say stay with idle up don't get something that starts at like 1500, because of using it for off road.

usually when you start putting it together all your parts need to work in the same power range. also don't get a cam that is bumpy at idle, the RV cam should not do that.

as far as carbs go don't go any bigger then a 600 unless you get a 650 with vacume secondaries

I would probably go with a RV cam, dual plane aluminum(non air-gap) intake, and some gasket matching. this will give you a mild build on little money and will give you more power. just make sure you get a nice set of shorty hedders and a nice exhaust and you will be in good shape.
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Happy_Jack
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Post by Happy_Jack »

For good low end torque stay below 204 degrees duration @.050 lift on the cam. I like the the stock 351W 4bl. cam of the late 60's. You can run the the 351w firing order in the 302 and it seperates #7 & #8 firing close together. I like a stock 2bl carb and manifold. Or you can use a stock 4bl manifold with a 2bl to 4 bl adaptor. The 4bl carbs are harder to get to work off road. The Holley is the worst. Two fuel bowl on different ends and jets up off the floor of the bowl going in side ways. Edlebrock (Carter) is the way to go if you must have a 4bl. A good 350 2bl is a lot nicer and easier though.
redneckwelder01
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Post by redneckwelder01 »

I 'm running a 76 302 all stock with a holley 500cfm 2bbl .
For a dd it's pretty good on gas , and i don't have any complaints off road
Who care's , let's go wheelin
Wheelz
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:08 pm
Location: Wallingford, CT

Post by Wheelz »

Thanks for all the replies guys.. I'll be putting my parts list together this coming week. I still need to hone out the piston chambers due to water getting into them. but overall i'm rather pleased with the condition of the engine.

Thanks again
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