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sounds like a tfi. you need a new module. i am having the same problem right now

the noise that goes away when you push the clutch still needs to be adressed. i'm willing to bet it is the release bearing. might as well put a slave cylinder and pilot bearing in as well.

use a volt meter to check voltage at the connector. at idle you should have less than 1 volt. at full throttle you should not have more than 5 volts. make sure that the voltage changes smoothly as the throttle opens. not sure which wire is which off hand. one of the wires will have constant power an...

does the fuel pressure hold if you let it sit for a bit. all you need to run is air, fuel, fire, and compression. if you know that you have all of these then there could be sensor or timing problems

some parts houses still sell bushing for carbs. the throttle plate has to come out and the holes usually have to be enlarged for the bushings and they have to be drilled really straight. if the throttle plate has a lot of slop it could act like a vacuum leak.

the heater core should always be full of coolant or the heater won't work. can you smell coolant in the cab? can you see any residue under the heater core? have you pressure tested the system? how much smoke out the tailpipe is the usuall amount?

did you replace the base gasket when you changed to carbs. if it sounds like a vacuum leak then it probably is. if it is running way rich then it should smoke out the tail pipe and smell like it is flooding. i would say vacuum leak though. as for the slow crank, check your cable connections on batte...

you could have moisture in the distributor cap that won't effect spark until the motor warms up. the heat causes the moisture to rise to the top of the cap. take it off and let it air out for awhile and see if that helps.

i have seen the throttle position sensor cause that problem

I would throw some slick50 in just to be safe.