BroncoII4x4.com

I have done several of these. A pitman arm puller is needed and a big hammer. If you can get a pitman arm puller it is not too bad. See if someone has one they could let you borrow or better yet come over and give you a hand. Or you could check and see if you can rent one. The tie rods/drag link ass...

No it is not a bolt in swap. The drivers side TTB bracket that holds the passangers side beam is different and is held on with large rivets. So the 2wd bracket will have to be removed by cutting or drilling the large rivets from the cross member. You will need a the correct 4wd bracket to replace it...

The info I have is that the two std. trannys that were used in 85 were the FM-145 door code D and the TK-5 door code 5. The M5OD R1 is said not to be available until 88 door code M. The TK was an upgrade tranny and has a lower first gear and overdrive. I would also check your axle ratios. You could ...

If I use a carb to wheel I like to use the 2bl Holley. The 4bl Holley has two seperate fuel bowls to manage. Lots of good stuff is made for the Holley aftermarket. The best is the foam cell to keep the jets covered. Vent tube baffles are another. You can extend your vent tube if you have room. I set...

The door tag should have the stock tire size and gear code. Bigger/taller tires without a gear change will hurt gas mileage and power. The biggest tires that came stock on a BII are 235 15's I think. Hope that helps. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your BII.

3" gives you more room. I did mine first with a 2" and then put a 3" on to see if I could move the engine back a bit more. Alot depends on what motor mounts and radiator fan set up you use and how much you are prepared to mod your firewall. If you have the rag joint in the steering co...

Depends on what driveshaft you use. If you use a double cardan then the diff pinion yoke should be down 1-1.5 degrees from the driveshaft angle. This is to alow for pinion climb under power. So when you put power to the rear end the pinion will move up and you will be in a straight line with the dri...

Or check your local salvage yards.

But the sand works your truck harder in low range also. My first BII was an 89 with an A4LD. I put leveling coils on the front and coil spacers for a cheap 2" lift and a long add-a-leaf in the rear and ran 30X9.50 BFG's. Went on a trip with the stock 3.73 gears and was getting really bad gas mi...

Thats the 64 dollar question. Kind of like how hard is hard. The front seats have to be removed. The front carpet pulled back. The rear carpet pulled forward. I've had body bolts break. Rusted in the middle. Then the body mounts and sleeves have to be cut out and replaced. Not a bad idea even if the...

Sand is the same for you walkin/running as it is for your truck. It eats power. Either regear or stay with as close to stock tires as you can. 4 ply tires with closer to street tread has done better for me with stock engines. If you want to go with much bigger and wider tires with aggressive pattern...

Ten. Five on each side.

I would go ahead and install it. If you do have the small amount of binding I had you can decide then if you want to replace the rag joint with a u-joint. I just ran it that way. I could feel it when turning the steering wheel but I never had any problems from it. They do make after market steering ...

Yes the angle is changed. I put a 2" and then a 3" on my 84 BII. It had a rag joint in the steering shaft and the 3" body lift with the extension did have some binding with the rag joint. The 2" was fine. I am told that the later BII's have a u-joint in place of the rag joint and...

The distance from the center of the u-joint to the seal seat is shorter on the GM shafts that I have than on the 35 or 44 TTB shafts by aprox 1/8 inch. The ears on the GM 44 are also thinner. I don't have pics on my web page yet. I put a GM 44 spindle, caliper plate, brakes and a 44 TTB hub, rotor, ...