BroncoII4x4.com

but if you plan to have your bronco for awhile... you might as well just buy one for 26 bucks...it is well worth it not to mention if it won't start you can't get it to autozone in the future

easiest would be to get normal parts but upgrading might be better...or check out a junkyard for a anormal driveshaft no cv style joints??????

buy a code reader for fords mine cost me 25 bucks at checker auto...then hook it up should be under the plastic cover over by the cilinoid follow the directions and you got codes

no clue i get all of my parts at my local napa...my AAA discount keeps the costs lower than most places

get a code reader they are cheap and well worth the investment it'll tell you everything you need to know and a few extra things that you didn't want to know :mad2: the first time i hiooked mine up it saved me the difference in cost of 2 o2 sensors and the throttlle position sensor!!!which paid for ...

my only ecperience with the cv style ujoint in the driveshaft is on my eagle talon and when it went it started hitting the underboddy of the car...from the looks in my book they are essentially the same so if you get under it and it has any play in it then that is it otherwise min started making a ...

what tranny does it have?? and have you checked out the brakes????

the last time i had a ford that did that it was a valve that came undone and was just floatin in it...but it was backfiring through the intake all the time not just when it was revved up...another thing would be check out thwe catalitc converter...if it's plugged up knock the insides out of it...er ...

you are better off just replacing the lil pin with a piece of welding rod...if you weld it then it'll be a bitch getting it off later...just pop whats left of the pin then jam a chunk of welding rod in the hole then cut in long and pound it in all the way and lay the washer over it and grind or file ...

my friend has a 88 with a 2.9 and a code of 95 oc something about fuel pump secondary circuit fault can anyone tell me what this is in english??

was the little pin that sticks out of the inner nut missing or worn out???If it was or is then use a piece of welding rod to replace it that will help in the battle of the losening bearings

now that i have driven it...the tps seemed to be causing alot of my problems. the idle is good now and it dosen't load up on fuel when i go up hills along with my tempgauge stays in a consistent spot (at the top of the "M" in norm) so i am putting off the ign mod for another week . Thanks guys you ...

i see. so next week is the ign mod
yea

well i started with the easiest one to get at and changed the TPS now the only codes i get are... Running 25 Knock not sensed during Dynamic Response Test Not Running 11 pass and 18 loss of tach input/IDM circuit failure/SPOUT circuit grounded so what wires do i need to check on the module or do i ...

Thanks now i know where to start but it'll be next week beefore i get the chance to take it apart